When the first Benihana opened in 1964, Japanese cuisine was unknown to the United
States and the idea of having a chef prepare a meal at your table was completely
unheard of. Blending exotic Japanese dishes with a dazzling chef performance may
have been a radical idea, but it was the recipe for success at Benihana. More than
100,000,000 meals have been served since 1964.
By bringing Japanese food into the mainstream and pioneering its "entertainment"
style of presentation, Benihana has also paved the way in America for the popularity
of other Japanese cooking styles and food products. This incredible American success
story really had its roots in Japan right after the war. At that time, Yunosuke
Aoki, a samurai descendant and a popular Japanese entertainer together with his
wife Katsu, opened a small coffee shop in Tokyo.
A red flower, found in the neighbourhood streets gave the Aoki's the inspiration
for the restaurant's name - Benihana - which in Japanese means "red flower." From
his show business background, Yunosuke was well aware of the publics' attraction
to something "different." This little Benihana coffeehouse soon became known for
serving and using real sugar. Yunosuke would have to pedal his bicycle more than
20 miles to purchase the sugar.
The family's four sons grew up with the coffee shop, which later became a full service
restaurant. Each of them understood the restaurant business from the ground up -
the importance of absolute cleanliness in the kitchen, using the freshest ingredients
and the very best cooking tools money could buy.
The eldest son, Hiroaki also grasped the important lesson of offering guests something
out of the ordinary and he could not help but inherit his father's appreciation
for the "theatrical". There was something magical about this combination and the
thought stayed with him as he completed college in Japan. Meanwhile, Hiroaki's athletic
ability had not been overlooked. His facility for wrestling earned him a spot on
the Japanese Olympic wrestling team. This team membership would offersually bring
him to America.
By the time Hiroaki arrived on U.S. soil in 1960, he had already begun to form the
idea that this country might be ready for a marriage of a different kind of food
- presented with an entertaining flair.
Adopting a name, which would be easier for Americans to pronounce, Rocky Aoki set
off to have his dream become reality. He worked seven days a week selling ice cream
in New York City and studied restaurant management at night. Through saving and
borrowing, Rocky scraped together enough money to finance his first four-table restaurant
on New York's W. 56th St.
As they worked within the authentic Japanese farmhouse interior, the Benihana dining
concept gradually came into focus. Food would be prepared right at the table "teppan-yaki"
style (Teppan meaning "steel grill" and yaki meaning "broiled") with dazzling effects
by highly trained chefs. Rocky also believed that because the restaurant was near
Broadway, the showmanship of the chefs was extremely important. Beef, chicken and
shrimp would be the stars of the menu, all prepared "hibachi-style" (an American-style
term for "teppan-yaki" cooking). Guests at the communal tables would place their
orders with the chef and watch in amazement as these items were sliced and diced,
and flipped into the air. The timing in cooking was critical. These different ingredients
had to be ready to serve onto the guests' plates simultaneously.
In 1964, after all the preparation and planning, Benihana of Tokyo was only serving
one or two customers a day. Aoki family members moonlighted at other restaurants
just to pay the bills. But, six months after the restaurant opened, an enthusiastic
review by Clementine Paddleford, legendary restaurant critic of the New York Herald-Tribune
reversed the trend for good. New Yorkers flocked to the four-table Benihana and
Rocky Aoki suddenly found himself in the position of having to turn dining guests